Vegetable Gardening Tips Articles

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01 Growing Of Vegetable Plants
02 Vegetables For Six
03 Root Crops Alliaceous And Brassicaceous Groups
04 Solanaceous Cucurbitaceous And Leguminous Crops
05 Salad Plants And Sweet Herbs
06 Asparagus
07 Artichoke And Artichoke Jerusalem
08 The Bean
09 The Culture Of The Bean
10 Beet Broccoli Brussels Sprouts
11 Cabbage
12 Cabbage Pests And Storage
13 Carrot And Cauliflower
14 Celeriac Chard Chicory And Chervil
15 Celery
16 Collards Chives And Corn
17 Cress And Cucumber
18 Dandelion Egg-Plant And Endive
19 Garlic Horseradish And Kale
20 Leek And Lettuce
21 Mushroom 1
22 Mushroom 2
23 Mustard Muskmelon And Okra
24 Onion
25 Parsley Parsnip And Pea
26 Pepper And Potato
27 Radish And Rhubarb
28 Salsify Sea-Kale Sorrel And Spearmint
29 Squash And Sweet-Potato
30 Tomato And Watermelon
31 Turnips And Rutabagas

Vegetable Gardening Tips

30 Tomato And Watermelon

Tomato And Watermelon

Tomato

The tomato is an inhabitant of practically every home garden, and everybody understands its culture.

The early fruits are very easily grown by starting the plants in a greenhouse, hotbed, or in shallow boxes placed in windows. A pinch of seed sown in March will give all the early plants a large family can use. When the plants have reached the height of 2 or 3 inches, they should be transplanted into 3-inch flower-pots, old berry boxes, or other receptacles, and allowed to grow slowly and stocky until time to set them out, which is from May 15 on (in New York). They should be set in rows 4 or 5 feet apart, the plants being the same distance in the rows.

Some support should be given to keep the fruits off the ground and to hasten the ripening. A trellis of chicken-wire makes an excellent support, as does the light lath fencing that may be bought or made at home. Stout stakes, with wire strung the length of the rows, afford an excellent support. A very showy method is that of a frame made like an inverted V, which allows the fruits to hang free; with a little attention to trimming, the light reaches the fruits and ripens them perfectly. This support is made by leaning together two lath frames.

The late fruits may be picked green and ripened on a shelf in the sun; or they will ripen if placed in a drawer.

One ounce of seed will be enough for from twelve to fifteen hundred plants. A little fertilizer in the hill will start the plants off quickly. The rot is less serious when the vines are kept off the ground and the rampant suckers are cut out. Varieties pass out and new ones come into notice, so that a list is of small permanent value.

Watermelon

The watermelon is shipped everywhere in such enormous quantities, and it covers so much space in the garden, that home-gardeners in the North seldom grow it. When one has room, it should be added to the kitchen-garden.

The culture is essentially that for muskmelons (which see), except that most varieties require a warmer place and longer period of growth. Give the hills a distance of 6 to 10 feet apart. Choose a warm, "quick" soil and sunny exposure. It is essential, in the North, that the plants grow rapidly and come into bloom early. One ounce of seed will plant thirty hills.

There are several white or yellow-fleshed varieties, but aside from their oddity of appearance they have little value. A good watermelon has a solid, bright red flesh, preferably with black seeds, and a strong protecting rind. Kolb Gem, Jones, Boss, Cuban Queen, and Dixie are among the best varieties. There are early varieties that will ripen in the Northern season, and make a much better melon than those secured on the market.

The so-called "citron," with hard white flesh, used in making preserves, is a form of watermelon.




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